Copenhagen has long been a destination for the sophisticated Euro-traveller. Famously the hub for gastronomic ingenuity, it boasts numerous Michelin-starred restaurants.
So on a bitterly cold spring evening, I find myself walking across King’s New Square, in the heart of the city, towards the Michelin-starred Marchal restaurant in the famed Hotel D’Angleterre.
A warm and welcoming Glow
Warmly greeted, I’m shown into the restaurant, which glows with refined opulence. Gently guided to our seats by my Italian waiter and sommelier, Mauro, the meal begins with an a few glasses of Deutz Champagne as we discuss the restaurant.
Opened in 2013, the Marchal kitchen is run by Copenhagen native, Andreas Bagh, whose background in traditional French cuisine continues to further the restaurant’s one-Michelin-star, which was first awarded in 2014.
From my table I can see the kitchen, where Andreas and his team are intently focussed on their work; they all smile and wave. I suggest Mauro and Andreas pick the menu for the evening, so as to give me the full Marchal experience, and I’m not disappointed.
Fresh seafood is expected in copenhagen
When the first course is delivered, which consists of Danish squid with oysters and caviar, served with a champagne jus and a glass of Ruinart champagne, I’m immediately impressed by the quality of the dish; it is rich and substantial, yet modest, and is a delicious prelude of what is yet to come.
Mauro brings the main course over; a filet of Sole, with an apple compote and cèpe-béarnaise sauce. The fish melts in my mouth, and even though the dish is modest in size, the taste-experience is exponentially big and bold.
A stunning Marchal Restaurant chateaubriand
Next, Mauro brings out a tantalising chateaubriand with fermented parsnips puree and a peppercorn sauce, which pairs perfectly with a 2012 Chateau Marquis de Terme that is easy to drink and a well matched complement to the chateaubriand.
We are now well sated and enjoying the heady glow thanks to the high quality wines.
“Dessert?” Mauro asks.
A dessert wrappted in 24k Gold
When Mauro returns, it is with a bar of rich chocolate, wrapped entirely in edible 24-karat gold leaf. And if that wasn’t enough, it is finished with a creamy calvados ice cream.
When we finish, Andreas comes out to talk about the dining experience, and he’s soon giving me the name of a nearby bar for a nightcap.
“I’ll be there in an hour,” Andreas says.
“There will be a cocktail waiting for you,” I reply.
Our meal, which was sublime from the outset, was surpassed only by the quality of the staff. Both Mauro and Andreas were warm and welcoming, and there was a sense that they truly loved their jobs at Marchal.
A smile from a passionate person says more about an establishment than anything else.
For more information, visit dangleterre.com.
Hugh Francis Anderson was a guest of the Marchal Restaurant.